![]() ![]() Sometimes I find it just easier to return that banjo to open A rather than struggling to capo and tune up the fifth string with a G banjo (if I go to gig or jam with OTM folks I take one banjo for each tuning I intend to use, generally just a D banjo and a G/A banjo, but for a concert I did bring 4 banjos and a guitar when I used several tunings). I do keeo one of my banjos, a Gold Tone WL 250 tuned up the DD, and so I avoid having to do that when playing with D fiddlers. I usually just tune the fifth string up, though sometimes it breakes the fifth string. #Banjo 5th string capo how toAnyone can point to a video on Youtube about how to use them. Frankly, I never figure out how to make them work. I have spikes on two of my open back banjos, a custom made super tubaphone O ring made to be the loudest open back possible and on my Enoch tradesman. I do miss the Shubb on this banjo, but I also like exercising choice about hitting and how loudly to hit the 5th string and I like that this banjo's neck has only damage from the spikes. In the live studio with this banjo, I do two things: I avoid hitting my open 5th string if it doesn't go with the chords I'm playing, and if I do use the spikes I don't re-tune the 5th string, but play it only very softly if the out-of-tune state is too pronounced. ![]() And yes, installing spikes does damage a fingerboard, but this fingerboard damage is typically easier to touch up than the binding and/or purfling damage that is done by installing a Shubb. It's an all original high-end moderately old banjo with a very nice original 5-string neck and I don't want to damage it any further. My newest banjo acquisition came to me with spikes in it at frets 7 and 9. So I've learned to play in any key without any capo and when I absolutely had to capo the 5th string, I used the Shubb because it doesn't require re-tuning when either applying it or un-applying it. In the live studio there just isn't time between songs to use anything that requires re-tuning, including spikes and a standard capo. Until a recent acquisition, I used Shubb sliding capos on all of my banjos. I'm just not sure I want to spend that much money on one.Īnd I'm proof of that because I mostly live at the 7th to 17th fret and I'm dirt poor. I've been eyeing the Banjo Highway capos for a while now. And it gets in my way when I'm fretting the 4th string next to it. And you have to be careful not to tighten the thumbscrew down too hard which can break the string.īut it works in a pinch, and it's relatively easy to use, I guess. It doesn't give me as bright or clear a sound as a spike (or other method that presses the string down onto a fret). But being a clawhammer guy, I tend to ping that 5th string pretty hard sometimes, and it can bounce around a bit. ![]() It just sits on the fretboard, butted up to the fret, and clamps down to the string. I've used it a few times, and it works OK. But they threw in a Reagan 5th string capo. One of my banjos had the spikes all messed up and the shop I took it to ended up taking them all out, which I was not too happy about. Just slip the string under the spike, adjust the tuning (since it will always go sharp when spiked) - it takes about 3 seconds. But I just haven't found any easier or faster way to tune up to a different drone note on that 5th string. I don't play a style that frets the 5th string, though, and they can indeed get in the way if you do. ![]()
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